I love learning! One of the things I’ve realised about quilting and sewing in general is that you can never learn all of it. I spent a day a couple of weeks ago just watching videos from the Superior thread company (all of the videos posted on youtube)
I learned so many things that will do nothing but improve the quality of my sewing and quilting. I really want to get my hands on some of that Superior thread too! I would love to feel and see the differences for myself, but my supplier doesn’t carry it (yet) so I’ll have to spend some time looking for some to sample.
Tension, and why you shouldn’t “ignore” it even on a machine that “auto” tensions:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzD-o…01QRL-QPUNrCbgBobbin Tension:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hf5dd…01QRL-QPUNrCbgThis video shows a visual of how the adjustment described in the video above works. (It’s for a long arm, but the adjustment is the same.) At about 0:50 to 2:08 The most important part is that there are 2 screws, usually you’ll adjust the “largest” screw, and it should always (in my experience) the one closest to the middle of the tension spring. The other one is just to hold the spring in place.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXJfT…01QRL-QPUNrCbgNeedles, this was enlightening to me. I guess I don’t need all those little packets:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gaalv…01QRL-QPUNrCbgThe thread delivery system – I might know why spools sometimes jump off the top of my machines now:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1jq9…01QRL-QPUNrCbgThread Shelf Life:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84Nrn…NrCbg&index=20All of the “thread therapy” was worth watching actually. I learned a lot today.
You bring up some good points.
I can’t see a leatherworker doing well with TopStitch needles. That said, other than leather, I am very guilty of not changing a needle as often as I should, to the point where I’ve pieced with leather needles, and sewn almost everything with the topstitch needles. Knits are usually done on my serger, so that’s less relevant. If someone is doing other than quilting, piecing or “general” work, they may benefit from a specialty needle. I’ve also done leather with “whatever” needle I ordered for the 31-15. *hangs head in shame*
Certainly metallics benefit just from the lower friction of the elongated eye. I think for piecing, the topstitch with it’s lower metal content should be fine. Has been fine in my experience. Deflection is rarely a problem at that stage. I use an MR needle in Lucey, and I suspect there isn’t even a topstitch needle availability for her. At the quilting stage, I know a lot of people have trouble with thread shredding and on a domestic at relatively low speed, TS needles seem to do OK. That said, a lot of people will say “expect to break a few needles” when free motion quilting on a domestic. I’ve only ever broken one and it was at the end of a session when I was clearly tired – might have been the same day I stitched my glove to the work too. No recollection at all of what that needle was. Could have been that leather needle for all I know. 🙂
Though I’m not sure what a quilter looks like. Certainly the EDQG doesn’t think I look like a quilter. 😉
Interesting videos, but I disagree with the part about all you need is one type of needle. From the appearance the audience was primarily quilters, but different people have different needs when sewing. Garment workers assembling clothing from knits would be poorly served by sharp needles.
I’d like a list of the “pros” he surveyed for needle selection.
In reference to the larger diameter threads he mentions (metallic, embroidery, etc) there may be some merit in the larger eye, but not all threads are the same size, so other than being easier to tread I don’t see why the extra large hole would be a good thing and until proven otherwise it could be bad.
His point about the groove only applies to oversize thread as well. If a thread is considerably smaller than the groove it isn’t going to do you any good. In fact the larger groove would weaken a a needle of a given size, as there simply is less metal there. Less metal = less stiffness and more potential for deflection when working multiple layers when quilting.
His point about oversize thread rubbing on the fabric because it can’t hide in the groove also isn’t valid as thread needs to be matched to the fabric. If you were to use upholstery thread on fine silk fabric, or light thread on leather then of course there are going to be problems.